FAQ

How can I prevent or correct the center area of an oval from dipping?

     The entire time I zigzag the cording that forms the base and the sides of an oval, I think--sew straight lines. If you notice the line dipping in the center of the sides there are several ways to correct the problem.
     Using a bamboo stick, push the ends in while stitching to compact that area a bit. Continue this for several rows until the side lines are even with the ends.
   Double wrap the problem area and then zigzag it into place. Repeat on the next several rows if necessary.
     If you notice severe dipping too late and you are using one color of cording you can still even out the remaining rows. Wrap and sew a partial cord in the dipped area for one or more rows to level the line.
     An applique or an outside pocket on a purse will cover any problem areas.

Making the tab handles on page 76

     The finished measurement of the handle shown is 3" wide by 2" high.*
     Begin by pressing your fabric. For the two handles rotary cut a section 3 1/2" by 4 1/4" twice. Use this measurement if you plan on a raw edged lower attachment as shown. Apply a fusible to the wrong side of the entire strip. I use Steam a Seam. Straight stitch a 1/4" fold down each side of the panel after turning the fabric to the wrong side. Now match the lower edges and hand crease a top edge. Along this top edge, insert a length of clothesline cut slightly shorter than the finished width. Secure with a straight stitching line next to the bottom of the bulky area. Stitch another line 1/4" below that area. Place the tab in position on the basket with pins. Split the tab--half on the outside and half on the inside. Press both tabs to allow the fusible surfaces to bond to each side. Zigzag the bottom edges to the basket. Machine or hand stitch the sides. Adding the 3 buttons helps secure the tab and also acts as an embellishment.

     * Adjust your finished size to compliment your basket.
     * Include a 1/4" seam allowance to each side=1/2" and only 1/4" to the length. (The addition of clothesline takes up some of the length).
     * Notice the bottom edge of the handle touches the matching fabric on the basket. Make any adjustment to your length if you are duplicating this pattern.
     * If you want a finished edge cut your pieces 3 1/2" by    4 3/4". This will allow you to fold under 1/4" bottom hems and to have enough fabric after adding the clothesline.

Needles breaking or messy bobbin thread

     If you break more than one needle, the tension seems all wrong, or the underside stitching is tangled, you are using the wrong line. Before trying another type, check to see if the bobbin is correctly inserted and that the threading of your machine is right. After experimenting with many types of line, Whitney Design has given me the most success while teaching others and for my personal use. Save yourself some disappointment and time. Get the correct line and get started on creating your "one of a kind" project.

Instructions for the vessel-shaped project on the cover of "It's a Wrap"

     Begin with a 4 1/2" round base. To start the sides use angle position 2 for one row followed with one row in angle position 3. Continue until you can use variation 2 of angle position 3. This change is possible when you begin stitching the multi-colored rows. For the remainder, encircle the machine arm holding the project at a 90 degree angle from the machine bed. To bring the sides in slightly near the top go back to using variation 2 of angle position 3 with a fingertip lift for the last several rows. Apply a quilt binding to finish off the top. I cut the width of my binding at 2 1/8". This may vary with the type of line that you use.
     Sew seven rows of the dot fabric twice, five rows of the multi-colored fabric twice, four rows of the solid periwinkle twice, two rows of yellow, one row of green, and two rows of orange.
     The 16" side handles are made by covering two bare joint lines with one length of fabric for each. Straight stitch the lengths close to the edges and once down the middle to secure. Turn the outer raw edge under. Pin the handles in place. Secure them with hand stitches.
     The finished vessel stands 8 1/2" high.


Instructions for the oval placemat in It's A Wrap II

     My starting line was 7 1/2" or a 15" length divided equally to form an oval.
     The Christmas mat has six rows of each of the four colors. The one outer row has an additional colored pattern. Remember to zigzag around the outer edge to prevent fraying. Santa and the Christmas tree are fused and then straight stitched to the mat following the design lines.
     The finished size of the mat is 17" x 10 1/4". This may vary with the use of different lines.